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The short answer
Running watts are what an appliance draws once it is going; starting watts are the brief surge a motor or compressor pulls to get moving, often 2–6 times the running figure. Heating appliances (kettles, toasters, space heaters) have no surge but draw 1,000–1,800 W. For solar and batteries, the number that matters most is daily watt-hours: running watts × hours actually running. The chart below gives all three for 58 common loads, each with its source.
Appliance Wattage Chart (Running, Starting and Daily Use)
Filter by category or search by name. Running watts are a typical figure with the published range under it; starting watts apply to motors and compressors. “Hours/day” is a typical use assumption — replace it with your own. Each row links to the manufacturer chart, ENERGY STAR dataset or government guide it came from. Want the totals for your own list? Use the off-grid solar calculator, which is built on this data.
| Appliance | Running W | Starting W | Hours/day | Daily Wh | Sources |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full-size refrigerator (ENERGY STAR, 18–22 cu ft) Refrigeration · 120V | 150 132–400 | 1,200 compressor surge; Honda lists 1,200 W for an ENERGY STAR fridge/freezer, Champion 800–1,200 W | 8 | 1,267 | [1] [2] [3] [4]Notesdaily_wh from ENERGY STAR certified models 18–22 cu ft (1,059 models, data pulled 2026-11-02): average 462.5 kWh/yr (= ~1,267 Wh/day), range 130–704 kWh/yr. Honda lists 132–192 W running for an ENERGY STAR refrigerator or freezer; Champion lists 150–400 W. |
| Refrigerator, older frost-free (nameplate / conservative generator figure) Refrigeration · 120V | 725 700–1,000 | 2,200 compressor surge; Westinghouse lists 2,200 W; Whirlpool advises doubling running watts for refrigeration start-up | — | — | [1] [2] [3]NotesVT lists 725 W for a 16 cu ft frost-free refrigerator; Westinghouse lists 700 W running for 'refrigerator or freezer'; Whirlpool lists 1,000 W for refrigerator/freezer. These are sizing (nameplate-type) figures, much higher than the average draw of a modern unit. |
| Chest freezer (ENERGY STAR, 5–7 cu ft) Refrigeration · 120V | 150 100–500 | 1,000 compressor surge; Champion lists 500–1,000 W for a freezer | — | 614 | [1] [2] [3]Notesdaily_wh from ENERGY STAR certified chest freezers (all certified chest models are in the compact chest class, 27 models 5–7.1 cu ft): median 224 kWh/yr (= ~614 Wh/day), range 195–226 kWh/yr. Whirlpool lists 500 W running for a manual-defrost freezer. Larger (10+ cu ft) chest freezers were not in the certified list when checked. |
| Upright freezer (ENERGY STAR, 13–21 cu ft) Refrigeration · 120V | 150 100–1,000 | 1,000 compressor surge; Champion lists 500–1,000 W for a freezer | — | 1,241 | [1] [2] [3]Notesdaily_wh from ENERGY STAR certified upright freezers 13–21 cu ft (311 models): average 453 kWh/yr (= ~1,241 Wh/day), range 305–640 kWh/yr. Champion lists 100–500 W running; Whirlpool lists 1,000 W for a self-defrost freezer (defrost heater included). |
| Mini / compact refrigerator (ENERGY STAR, 2.5–4.5 cu ft) Refrigeration · 120V | 75 50–100 | 600 compressor surge; Champion lists 400–600 W for a mini fridge/cooler | — | 678 | [1] [2]Notesdaily_wh from ENERGY STAR certified compact refrigerators 2.5–4.5 cu ft (1,047 models): average 247.6 kWh/yr (= ~678 Wh/day), range 42–442 kWh/yr. Small units are often less efficient per cubic foot than full-size ones. |
| 12V compressor fridge/freezer (Dometic CFX3 35, 36 L) Off-grid & RV · 12V DC | 12 ~12 average; up to 7.5 A DC rated input (~90 W) | — DC compressor; no starting surge figure published by Dometic | 24 | 282 | [1]NotesDometic lists energy consumption 0.98 Ah/h at 12 VDC (ambient 90°F, internal 39°F); 0.98 Ah/h x 12 V x 24 h = ~282 Wh/day (our arithmetic). Rated input: 50 W on AC (0.78 A at 120 V), 7.5 A on DC. Also runs on 120 V AC. |
| Propane (absorption) RV fridge — electrical draw in gas mode Off-grid & RV · 12V DC | — not confirmed; 12 V control circuit is fused at 3 A | — | 24 | — | [1]NotesThe Dometic Americana RM/DM manual lists fuses of 3 A for the control system, 5 A for the AC heater and 30 A for the 12 VDC heater, but does not publish the actual 12 V current draw in gas mode. A 3 A fuse caps control draw at ~36 W; actual draw is lower and was not confirmed. Some models also have a 12 V frame/door heater switch that adds draw (not confirmed). |
| Absorption RV fridge running on 120V AC (electric heater mode) Off-grid & RV · 120V | 325 175–325 | No surge no surge, resistive | — | — | [1] [2] [3]NotesDometic heater ratings: 175 W AC heater on RM2351/2354/2451/2454/2551/2554; 325 W AC heater on DM2652/2662/2663/2852/2862/NDM1062; 3-way models have 12 V DC heaters of 175 W (RM2354/2454/2554) or 275 W (DM2663). Generator charts list an 'RV refrigerator' at 180 W running/600 W starting (Honda) and 150–600 W running/400–1,000 W starting (Champion). |
| Microwave oven (1,000 W cooking power) Kitchen · 120V | 1,500 600–1,500 | — no separate surge; Champion lists none and Honda lists starting = running | 0.25 | 375 | [1] [2] [3] [4]NotesCooking power is less than input power: Honda lists 1,500 W draw for a 1,000 W microwave (1,000 W for a 650 W model, 1,300 W for 800 W). VT lists 750–1,100 W; Champion 600–1,200 W; Whirlpool 800–1,100 W. Check the input rating on the label. |
| Toaster (2-slice) Kitchen · 120V | 1,200 800–1,400 | No surge no surge, resistive | 0.1 | 120 | [1] [2]NotesVT lists 800–1,400 W; Generac worksheet lists 1,200 W. |
| Toaster oven Kitchen · 120V | 1,225 1,225 | No surge no surge, resistive | 0.5 | 612 | [1]NotesVT lists 1,225 W. Element cycles once at temperature, so actual energy is usually below watts x time. |
| Drip coffee maker Kitchen · 120V | 1,000 600–1,200 | No surge no surge, resistive | 0.5 | 500 | [1] [2] [3]NotesVT lists 900–1,200 W; Honda lists 600 W for a 4-cup maker; Generac 1,200 W. Warming plate keeps drawing power after brewing. |
| Electric kettle Kitchen · 120V | 1,500 1,500 | No surge no surge, resistive | 0.2 | 300 | [1]NotesDOE Energy Saver uses a 1,500 W electric kettle as its worked example. 1,500 W is a common rating, but check the label. |
| Induction cooktop (portable, per burner) Kitchen · 120V | 1,500 1,200–1,800 | No surge no surge (electronic, non-motor load) | 1 | 1,500 | [1]NotesChampion lists 1,200–1,800 W for a portable induction cooktop. Built-in 240 V induction elements are often rated higher per element; not confirmed here. |
| Electric range — one surface element / oven element Kitchen · 240V | 2,100 1,200–3,000 | No surge no surge, resistive | 1 | 2,100 | [1] [2] [3]NotesHonda lists 2,100 W for an 8-inch element; Champion 1,200–2,400 W for one burner; Whirlpool 1,500–2,400 W per surface element and 1,000–3,000 W for bake/broil elements. Elements cycle once at temperature. Whole-range total draw not confirmed. |
| Electric pressure cooker (Instant Pot Duo 6 qt) Kitchen · 120V | 1,000 1,000 (6 qt); 1,200 (8 qt) | No surge no surge, resistive | 0.75 | 750 | [1]NotesInstant Pot Duo manual: IP-DUO60 (6 qt) 1,000 W; IP-DUO80 (8 qt) 1,200 W; 120 V, 60 Hz. |
| Slow cooker Kitchen · 120V | 250 170–270 | No surge no surge, resistive | 8 | 2,000 | [1] [2]NotesHonda lists 170–270 W; Generac 250 W. |
| Countertop blender Kitchen · 120V | 400 300–1,000 | 850 motor surge; Honda lists 850 W, Champion 600–1,200 W | 0.05 | 20 | [1] [2] [3]NotesHonda lists 400 W running; Champion (tailgate blender) 300–600 W; Generac worksheet 1,000 W. High-power blenders are rated higher; check the label. |
| Dishwasher Kitchen · 120V | 1,400 216–2,400 | — heating element dominates; Honda lists 540 W start / 216 W run in cool-dry mode | 1 | 1,400 | [1] [2] [3] [4]NotesVT and Champion list 1,200–2,400 W; Whirlpool 1,400 W; Honda 216 W running in cool-dry mode (no heated dry). VT notes the heated drying feature greatly increases energy use. |
| Clothes washer (top- or front-load) Laundry · 120V | 500 350–1,440 | 2,300 motor surge; Champion lists 1,000–2,300 W | 1 | 500 | [1] [2] [3] [4]NotesVT lists 350–500 W; Champion 500–1,000 W; Honda 1,200 W; Whirlpool 1,440 W. Does not include water heating, which is usually the larger energy use. |
| Electric clothes dryer Laundry · 240V | 5,400 1,800–6,000 | 6,750 Honda lists 6,750 W starting (drum motor); Champion lists no extra starting watts | 1 | 5,400 | [1] [2] [3] [4]NotesVT lists 1,800–5,000 W; Honda 5,400 W; Champion 4,000–6,000 W; Whirlpool 5,800 W. Heating element cycles during the load. |
| Gas clothes dryer (motor, controls and igniter only) Laundry · 120V | 800 800 | — not confirmed; no starting figure in sources checked | 1 | 800 | [1] [2]NotesWhirlpool lists 800 W running for a gas dryer (estimate). Whirlpool gas dryers require a 120 V, 15 or 20 A circuit. Separate starting watts not published. |
| Clothes iron Laundry · 120V | 1,400 1,000–1,800 | No surge no surge, resistive | 0.25 | 350 | [1]NotesVT lists 1,000–1,800 W. Thermostat cycles the element. |
| Shallow-well / jet pump, 1/2 hp Water · 120V or 240V | 1,000 600–1,000 | 2,000 motor surge; Champion lists 1,500–2,000 W for a 1/2 hp well pump; Honda 1,800 W for a 1/2 hp capacitor-start motor | 1 | 1,000 | [1] [2]NotesChampion lists a 1/2 hp well pump at 750–1,000 W running; Honda lists a 1/2 hp capacitor-start induction-run motor at 600 W running. Jet pump-specific manufacturer data not confirmed. |
| Deep-well submersible pump, 1/2 hp (4-inch, 2-wire, 230 V) Water · 240V | 670 670–960 | 2,000 Champion lists 1,500–2,000 W; Franklin lists locked-rotor current of 32.2 A at 230 V (~7.4 kVA apparent), so size inverters/generators per t | 1 | 670 | [1] [2] [3]NotesFranklin Electric AIM manual: full load 5.0 A / 670 W, maximum service-factor load 6.0 A / 960 W, locked rotor 32.2 A (115 V version: 10.0 A / 670 W, max 12.0 A / 960 W, LRA 64.4 A). VT lists deep-well pumps at 250–1,100 W. |
| Deep-well submersible pump, 1 hp (4-inch, 2-wire, 230 V) Water · 240V | 1,210 1,000–2,000 | 4,000 Champion lists 2,000–4,000 W; Franklin lists locked-rotor current of 48.7 A at 230 V (~11.2 kVA apparent) | 1 | 1,210 | [1] [2]NotesFranklin Electric AIM manual: full load 8.2 A / 1,210 W, maximum service-factor load 10.4 A / 1,600 W, locked rotor 48.7 A. Champion lists 1,000–2,000 W running for a 1 hp well pump. (3/4 hp: 940 W full load, 1,310 W max.) |
| RV / cabin 12V pressure pump (Shurflo Revolution 4008, 3 GPM) Water · 12V DC | 90 up to 90 (7.5 A max at 12 VDC) | — DC diaphragm pump; no starting figure published | 0.5 | 45 | [1]NotesPentair Shurflo lists 4008-101-E65: 12 VDC, 3 GPM, 7.5 A max, 55 psi shut-off (7.5 A x 12 V = 90 W, our arithmetic). Typical draw below max. A 115 VAC version lists 1 A max. |
| Sump pump, 1/2 hp Water · 120V | 1,050 800–1,050 | 2,150 motor surge; Honda and Champion list up to 2,150 W | 0.5 | 525 | [1] [2] [3]NotesHonda: 1/2 hp 1,050 W running / 2,150 W starting; 1/3 hp 800 W / 1,300 W. Champion: 1/2 hp 800–1,050 W / 1,300–2,150 W. Westinghouse: 1/3 hp 800 W / 1,300 W. |
| Electric tank water heater (40–50 gal) Water · 240V | 4,500 3,000–5,500 | No surge no surge, resistive | 3 | 13,500 | [1] [2] [3]NotesVT lists 4,500–5,500 W for a 40-gallon heater; Honda 4,500 W; Champion 3,000–4,500 W. |
| Window air conditioner, 10,000 BTU Heating & cooling · 120V | 1,200 900–1,500 | 2,200 compressor surge; Honda lists 2,200 W, Champion 1,800–2,400 W | 8 | 9,600 | [1] [2] [3]NotesHonda 1,500 W running; Champion 900–1,200 W; Whirlpool 1,200 W. Newer inverter window units may draw less and start softly; check the label. |
| Window air conditioner, 5,000 BTU Heating & cooling · 120V | 500 450–600 | 1,200 compressor surge; Champion lists 900–1,200 W | 8 | 4,000 | [1]NotesChampion lists 450–600 W running. |
| Ductless mini-split heat pump, 12,000 BTU (inverter) Heating & cooling · 240V | 920 920 rated cooling (max 1,300); 1,100 rated heating at 47°F (max 1,620) | — inverter-driven compressor ramps up; no locked-rotor surge published | 8 | 7,360 | [1]NotesMitsubishi MSZ-GL12NA/MUZ-GL12NA submittal: cooling 12,000 BTU/h rated (1,500–13,600), 920 W rated input (max 1,300 W); heating 1,100 W rated at 47°F (max 1,620 W); SEER 23.1, EER 13.0; 208/230 V. Other brands and models differ. |
| Central air conditioner, 3 ton Heating & cooling · 240V | 3,500 3,000–3,500 (2 ton: 2,000–2,500; 4 ton: 4,000–5,000) | 6,000 compressor surge; Champion lists 5,000–6,000 W for 3 ton | 8 | 28,000 | [1]NotesChampion figures. Starting: 2 ton 3,500–4,500 W; 4 ton 6,500–8,000 W. Soft-start kits and variable-speed units reduce the surge (not quantified here). |
| RV rooftop air conditioner, 13,500 BTU Off-grid & RV · 120V | 1,800 1,500–2,000 | 2,800 compressor surge; Honda lists 2,800 W, Champion 2,800–3,500 W | 6 | 10,800 | [1] [2]NotesHonda: 11,000 BTU 1,010/1,600 W; 13,500 BTU 1,800/2,800 W; 15,000 BTU 2,000/3,300 W (running/starting). |
| Furnace blower fan, 1/2 hp Heating & cooling · 120V | 875 300–875 | 2,350 motor surge; Honda and Westinghouse list 2,350 W, Champion 800–1,600 W | 6 | 5,250 | [1] [2] [3] [4]NotesHonda: 1/3 hp 700/1,400 W; 1/4 hp 600/1,000 W (running/starting). Champion 300–800 W running. VT lists 750 W for a furnace fan. ECM (variable-speed) blowers typically draw less (not quantified here). |
| Portable electric space heater Heating & cooling · 120V | 1,500 750–1,500 | No surge no surge, resistive | 4 | 6,000 | [1] [2]NotesVT and Champion list 750–1,500 W (low/high settings). |
| Ceiling fan Heating & cooling · 120V | 60 15–175 | — small motor; no starting watts listed | 8 | 480 | [1] [2]NotesChampion lists 15–75 W; VT lists 65–175 W (older figures; DC-motor fans are at the low end). |
| Box / window fan Heating & cooling · 120V | 100 40–250 | 120 small motor; Honda lists 120 W starting for a portable fan | 8 | 800 | [1] [2] [3]NotesChampion lists 50–200 W for a box fan; VT 55–250 W for a window fan; Honda 40 W running for a portable fan. |
| Dehumidifier (~50 pint/day, ENERGY STAR) Heating & cooling · 120V | 460 250–785 | — compressor load; starting surge not published in sources checked | — | 1,375 | [1] [2] [3]NotesENERGY STAR certified ~49-pint portable models list 502–520 kWh/yr (= ~1,375–1,425 Wh/day); average across 547 certified portable models 350 kWh/yr. Running watts derived from ENERGY STAR data (our arithmetic): 49.32 pints/day at 2.10 L/kWh = ~460 W; a 22-pint model at 1.70 L/kWh = ~260 W. Whirlpool lists 700 W; VT 785 W (older). |
| LED light bulb (60 W-equivalent) Lighting · 120V | 10 8–15 | No surge no surge (LED driver) | 5 | 50 | [1]NotesChampion lists 8–15 W per LED bulb. 12 V DC LED fixtures are common in RVs and cabins. |
| Laptop computer Electronics & office · 120V | 50 20–100 | No surge no surge (electronic) | 8 | 400 | [1] [2] [3]NotesVT lists 50 W; Generac 75 W; Champion 20–100 W (phone/laptop charger). Honda lists 200–250 W, which is well above typical modern laptops. |
| Desktop computer (with monitor) Electronics & office · 120V | 400 120–800 | No surge no surge (electronic) | 8 | 3,200 | [1] [2] [3]NotesSources disagree widely: VT lists 120 W (CPU awake); Generac 400 W; Honda 600–800 W plus 30 W for an LCD monitor. Gaming PCs are higher; office mini-PCs much lower. Measure with a plug-in meter if this load matters. |
| LED TV, 55-inch (ENERGY STAR) Electronics & office · 120V | 93 64–114 | No surge no surge (electronic) | 5 | 484 | [1] [2]NotesENERGY STAR certified TVs 54–55.9 in (31 models, data pulled 2026-11-02): on-mode 64–114 W, average ~93 W; average reported annual energy 177 kWh (= ~484 Wh/day). Champion lists 80–400 W for 32–55 in TVs. |
| Wi-Fi router / modem Electronics & office · 120V | 15 10–20 | No surge no surge (electronic) | 24 | 360 | [1]NotesChampion lists 10–20 W for an internet router/modem. Many run on 12 V DC adapters. |
| Starlink Standard kit (dish + router) Electronics & office · 120V | 100 75–100 average | No surge no surge listed | 24 | 2,400 | [1]NotesStarlink Standard spec sheet: average power consumption 75–100 W; power supply input 100–240 V AC, 2.5 A, 50–60 Hz. running_w uses the top of Starlink's stated average. Snow-melt heating can raise draw (not quantified on the sheet). |
| Phone charger Electronics & office · 120V | 10 10–20 | No surge no surge (electronic) | 2 | 20 | [1] [2]NotesGenerac lists 10 W for a cell phone charger; Champion lists 20–100 W for a phone/laptop charger. Fast chargers can draw more while charging. |
| CPAP machine (ResMed AirSense 10) Personal care · 120V | 22 7–34 (ResMed); 30–120 (Champion, with heat) | No surge no surge listed | 8 | 176 | [1] [2]NotesResMed test data for AirSense 10 AutoSet: 5 standby, 7 device only, 22 with humidifier, 34 with humidifier + ClimateLineAir heated tube (maximum). ResMed's table header reads 'Watt Hour', so treat these as average watts over the test. Champion lists 30–60 W without heat and 60–120 W with heated humidifier. Turning off the humidifier and heated tube cuts draw sharply. AirSense 11 figures not confirmed. |
| Hair dryer Personal care · 120V | 1,800 1,200–1,875 | — heating element dominates; Honda lists 1,900 W starting for a 1,600 W dryer | 0.15 | 270 | [1] [2] [3]NotesVT lists 1,200–1,875 W; Honda 1,800 W running for a 1,600 W dryer; Generac 1,500 W. |
| Vacuum cleaner (upright / canister) Personal care · 120V | 1,200 900–1,440 | — motor load; starting watts not listed in sources checked | 0.3 | 360 | [1] [2]NotesVT lists 1,000–1,440 W; Generac lists 900 W for a wet/dry vac. |
| Circular saw, 7-1/4 in Tools & shop · 120V | 1,400 1,200–1,800 | 2,300 motor surge; Honda and Westinghouse list 2,300 W, Champion 2,400–3,600 W | 0.5 | 700 | [1] [2] [3]NotesHonda (heavy duty) 1,400 W running; Champion 1,200–1,800 W; Westinghouse 1,400 W. |
| Corded drill, 1/2 in Tools & shop · 120V | 600 400–600 | 900 motor surge; Honda lists 900 W, Champion 800–1,200 W | 0.25 | 150 | [1] [2]NotesHonda: 1/2 in (5.4 A) 600/900 W; 3/8 in (4 A) 440/600 W (running/starting). |
| Cordless tool battery charger Tools & shop · 120V | 360 not confirmed from a charger spec sheet | No surge no surge (electronic) | 1 | 360 | [1]NotesGenerac worksheet lists 360 W for a lithium-ion battery charger (the PDF's table text extracted poorly, so treat as approximate). Single-port chargers are often well below this; check the charger's input rating. |
| Air compressor, 1 hp Tools & shop · 120V | 1,600 1,500–1,600 | 4,500 motor surge; Honda and Champion list 4,500 W | 0.5 | 800 | [1] [2]NotesHonda: 1/2 hp 975/1,600 W; 1 hp 1,600/4,500 W (running/starting). Champion: 1 hp 1,500/4,500 W. |
| Table saw, 10 in Tools & shop · 120V | 1,800 1,800–2,000 | 4,500 motor surge; Honda lists 4,500 W | 0.5 | 900 | [1] [2]NotesHonda 1,800 W running / 4,500 W starting; Westinghouse 2,000 W running. |
| Electric chainsaw (corded, 14 in) Tools & shop · 120V | 1,100 1,100 | 1,100 Honda lists starting equal to running | 0.5 | 550 | [1]NotesHonda lists a 14 in, 2 hp electric chain saw at 1,100 W running and starting. |
| Pipe heat tape (self-regulating thermostat, 18 ft) Off-grid & RV · 120V | 126 7 W per foot | No surge no surge, resistive | 12 | 1,512 | [1]NotesFrost King HC18: 120 V, 7 W per foot with built-in thermostat; 18 ft x 7 W = 126 W (our arithmetic). Scale by length; other brands and self-regulating cables differ. |
| Garage door opener Tools & shop · 120V | 720 720 | 1,420 motor surge; Honda lists 1,420 W | 0.05 | 36 | [1]NotesHonda lists 720 W running / 1,420 W starting. |
| Electric fence charger (AC plug-in) Off-grid & RV · 120V | 14 14–250 | No surge no surge (electronic) | 24 | 336 | [1] [2]NotesZareba EAC75M-Z (4 J, 75 mile) is listed at 14 W during operation (from a manufacturer Q&A answer, not the spec table). Honda's generator guide lists a '25 mile' electric fence at 250 W. Solar/battery chargers with 12 V DC input also exist. |
Quick Reference: The Loads That Decide Your System Size
Most off-grid and backup systems are sized by a handful of appliances: the ones with a big starting surge (pumps, compressors, air conditioners) and the ones that run for hours (refrigeration, heat). These ten set the inverter or generator size and most of the battery bank.
| Appliance | Running W | Starting W | Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-size refrigerator (ENERGY STAR, 18–22 cu ft) | 150 | 1,200 | 1,267 |
| Chest freezer (ENERGY STAR, 5–7 cu ft) | 150 | 1,000 | 614 |
| Microwave oven (1,000 W cooking power) | 1,500 | — | 375 |
| Shallow-well / jet pump, 1/2 hp | 1,000 | 2,000 | 1,000 |
| Deep-well submersible pump, 1/2 hp (4-inch, 2-wire, 230 V) | 670 | 2,000 | 670 |
| Window air conditioner, 10,000 BTU | 1,200 | 2,200 | 9,600 |
| Portable electric space heater | 1,500 | No surge | 6,000 |
| Electric tank water heater (40–50 gal) | 4,500 | No surge | 13,500 |
| Starlink Standard kit (dish + router) | 100 | No surge | 2,400 |
| CPAP machine (ResMed AirSense 10) | 22 | No surge | 176 |
How to Read the Chart: Running Watts, Starting Watts and Watt-Hours
Running (rated) watts are the steady draw. On a motor or compressor appliance the rating plate often shows amps instead; multiply amps by the voltage (120 V or 240 V) for an upper-bound wattage. The plate figure is a maximum, so the real running draw is usually lower, which is why ENERGY STAR’s measured annual kWh is the better guide for refrigerators, freezers and TVs.
Starting (surge) watts are drawn for well under a second while an induction motor comes up to speed. Generator makers publish them because a generator or inverter that can’t supply the surge will stall or trip even if its running rating looks big enough. Well pumps and air conditioners have the largest surges in the chart; resistive heating loads have none.
Daily watt-hours are what drain a battery. A 1,500 W space heater running six hours uses 9,000 Wh, more than a typical refrigerator uses in a week. A refrigerator’s compressor cycles, so its daily use (about 1.3 kWh for an ENERGY STAR 18–22 cu ft model, per the ENERGY STAR dataset) is far less than 150 W × 24 hours would suggest. See how many watts a refrigerator uses for the full breakdown.
Using the Chart to Size a Generator or Inverter
The method generator makers (Honda, Champion, Generac) publish is the same:
- Add up the running watts of everything that will be on at the same time.
- Find the one appliance with the largest difference between starting and running watts.
- Add that difference to the running total. That is the surge your generator or inverter has to cover.
Example: a refrigerator (150 W running, 1,200 W starting), a 1/2 hp shallow-well pump and lights. Only one motor starts at a time, so you add the running watts of everything plus the biggest single surge. Inverters are rated in continuous watts plus a short surge rating, so check both. Our generator sizing guide walks through whole-house examples.
Measure Your Own Appliances
Figures in any chart are typical, not yours. The U.S. Department of Energy suggests three ways to get your own numbers: read the rating plate, use a plug-in electricity usage monitor for 120 V plug-in loads, or watch the utility meter with everything else off. A plug-in meter left on a refrigerator or freezer for 24–48 hours gives a daily kWh figure you can put straight into a battery calculation. Hard-wired 240 V loads like well pumps need a clamp meter or the manufacturer’s data.
Sources
Every row cites its own sources (the bracketed links). The full list:
- ENERGY STAR Certified Residential Refrigerators dataset (EPA, data.energystar.gov p5st-her9)
- Honda Power Equipment — Generator Wattage Estimation Guide (starting and running watts)
- Champion Power Equipment — Generator Wattage Chart (running and starting watts)
- U.S. DOE Energy Saver — Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use
- Virginia Cooperative Extension (Virginia Tech) — Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use, BSE-301NP (2020), 'Typical Wattages of Various Appliances'
- Westinghouse iGen4500 User Manual — Wattage Reference table
- Whirlpool Product Help — Generator Usage with Appliances
- ENERGY STAR Certified Residential Freezers dataset (EPA, data.energystar.gov 8t9c-g3tn)
- Dometic CFX3 35 product page (9600024617) — technical specifications
- Dometic Americana RM/DM Series absorption refrigerator Operating Instructions (hosted by Forest River)
- Generac — Generator Wattage Worksheet (PDF)
- Instant Pot Duo user manual (IP-DUO60 / IP-DUO80 specifications)
- Whirlpool gas dryer dimension guide W10261614B (electrical requirements)
- Franklin Electric — 60 Hz AIM Manual, Submersible Systems, 2026 ed. (4-inch 1-phase 2-wire motor specifications; hosted by Nebraska DWEE)
- Pentair Shurflo Revolution 4008 Series By-Pass Pump — product specifications
- Mitsubishi Electric Submittal Data: MSZ-GL12NA & MUZ-GL12NA (12,000 BTU/h)
- ENERGY STAR Certified Dehumidifiers dataset (EPA, data.energystar.gov mgiu-hu4z)
- ENERGY STAR Certified Televisions dataset (EPA, data.energystar.gov pd96-rr3d)
- Starlink — Standard Kit Specifications sheet (PDF)
- ResMed — Power consumption of Air10 devices (doc 1018673/1, 2015-03)
- Frost King (Thermwell) HC18 18 ft water pipe heat cable, 120 V, 7 W/ft — listing at USABlueBook
- Zareba Systems — 75 Mile AC Powered Low Impedance Charger (EAC75M-Z) product page
How this chart was put together
Running and starting watts come from manufacturer specifications and generator-maker wattage charts (Honda, Champion, Generac, Franklin Electric and others); refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier and TV energy use comes from the EPA ENERGY STAR certified-product datasets, pulled November 2, 2026. Where sources disagree, the chart shows the range. Hours per day are typical-use assumptions, marked as such in the notes. Data checked November 2, 2026.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?
Running watts are the steady power an appliance draws once it is going. Starting (surge) watts are the brief extra power a motor or compressor needs for a fraction of a second to start, often two to six times the running figure. Generators and inverters must cover both.
How many watts does a refrigerator use?
An ENERGY STAR full-size refrigerator draws roughly 130–400 W while the compressor runs and surges to about 800–1,200 W at start, according to Honda and Champion wattage charts. Because the compressor cycles, daily use averages about 1.3 kWh for 18–22 cu ft models in the ENERGY STAR dataset.
Which appliances use the most electricity?
Heating loads use the most energy: electric water heaters, space heaters, electric dryers and ranges draw 1,500–5,500 W. Well pumps and air conditioners have the largest starting surges. For daily energy, anything that heats or cools for hours dominates the total.
How do I calculate watts from amps?
Multiply amps by volts. A rating plate that says 5 A at 120 V means up to 600 W. The plate figure is a maximum, so the real running draw is often lower; a plug-in watt meter gives the actual number.
Can I cite or reuse this chart?
Yes. Link to this page as the source. The CSV download includes every row and its source URLs so you can check each figure against the original manufacturer or government data.
